How to Get Rid of Rats & Mice

It usually starts with a faint scratching sound in the walls at night, or perhaps the discovery of a chewed cereal box in the pantry. While a single mouse might seem like a minor nuisance, the reality is that rodents are among the most persistent and challenging pests to manage.

To truly clear your home of these “uninvited guests,” you have to understand that you aren’t just fighting a physical animal—you are fighting their biology and their instincts.

Signs of Infestation

Rodents are rarely seen in the light, but they leave a clear trail of evidence.

Droppings: This is the most reliable ID method.
- Mice: Small, “spindle” shaped (like a grain of black rice) with pointed ends. About 1/8 to 1/4 inch long.
- Rats: Larger, “capsule” or “olive pit” shaped with blunt ends. About 1/2 to 3/4 inch long.
Gnaw & Rub Marks: * Gnawing: Look for clean-cut holes in cereal boxes (mice) or rough, jagged holes in wood or plastic (rats).
- Rub Marks: Rodents have poor eyesight and “hug” the walls as they run. Over time, the oils and dirt in their fur leave dark, greasy smudges along baseboards and corners.
Nighttime Noises: Because they are nocturnal, you’ll hear them when the house is quiet. Listen for scratching in the ceiling (Roof rats), scurrying in the walls (mice), or heavy thumping (Norway rats).

The Flashlight Test

Finding their “front door” is the most critical step of an IPM strategy. To do this, you need a high-powered flashlight and a bit of patience.

Wait for Dark: Turn off the house lights.
The Angle: Hold your flashlight low to the ground, shining the beam parallel to the floor/baseboard. This creates long shadows that reveal tiny footprints, droppings, and—most importantly—gaps.
The “Dime & Quarter” Rule: * Mice can squeeze through a hole as small as a dime (1/4 inch).
- Rats can squeeze through a hole as small as a quarter (1/2 inch).
Check the Vitals: Focus on where pipes enter walls (under sinks), corners of the pantry, and where the foundation meets the siding outside. If you see “rub marks” around a hole, you’ve found an active entry point.

Step 1: Sanitation (Starving Them Out)

Rodents move into your home for two reasons: warmth and a buffet. Even the best traps will fail if there is a mountain of pet food or a pile of crumbs nearby to compete with your bait. Sanitation isn’t just about “cleaning”; it’s about removing the incentive to stay.

Eliminate Food Sources

Cardboard and thin plastic are no match for rodent teeth.

The Container Swap: Move all pantry staples—flour, sugar, cereal, and grains—into glass, metal, or heavy-duty BPA-free plastic containers with airtight seals.
Pet Food Protocol: Never leave pet food bowls out overnight. Store bulk kibble in galvanized steel bins or heavy plastic totes with locking lids.

The “Crumb-Free” Standard

A mouse only needs about 3–5 grams of food per day to survive. That’s roughly the weight of a single penny.

Deep Clean Zones: Pull out the stove and refrigerator. You will likely find a “treasure trove” of spilled grease and fallen crumbs that can sustain a colony for months.
Toaster Care: Empty the crumb tray every night. To rodents, a toaster is a self-contained snack bar.

Outdoor Maintenance & Water Management

Bird Feeders: These are the #1 cause of neighborhood rat problems. Use “no-waste” seed or move feeders at least 20 feet away from the house.
Fallen Fruit: Pick up dropped apples or citrus immediately; these are high-calorie magnets.
Fix the Drips: Like all mammals, rodents need water. Fix leaky pipes under sinks, empty pet water bowls at night, and clear clogged gutters that trap standing water near your roofline.

Step 2: Exclusion (Locking the Doors)

Once the food is gone, you must ensure no new “guests” can arrive. If you trap the ones inside without sealing the holes, you are simply clearing space for the next litter to move in.

Professional Materials: Stop Using “Chewable” Fillers

Many people try to plug holes with expanding spray foam or wood. Don’t. Mice and rats can chew through these in minutes. Use these “rodent-proof” materials instead:

Steel Wool or Copper Mesh: Stuff these tightly into small gaps. Rodents cannot chew through the sharp metal fibers. Pro Tip: Use copper mesh as it won’t rust over time like steel wool.
Hardware Cloth: Use 1/4-inch galvanized steel mesh to cover larger vents or crawlspace openings.
Caulk & Sealant: Use a high-quality silicone or “Stuf-it” sealant to finish the job and keep the mesh in place.

Sealing the Gaps

Focus your efforts on the “High-Traffic” areas identified during your flashlight test:

Utility Entries: Check where gas, water, and electrical lines enter the house. These are often the most common entry points.
Door Sweeps: If you can see light under your door, a mouse can get in. Install heavy-duty, metal-backed door sweeps.
Foundation Cracks: Use hydraulic cement or metal mesh to seal cracks in the concrete or brickwork.

The 1/4 Inch Rule

When inspecting your work, keep a standard pencil in your pocket.

The Rule of Thumb: If the tip of a pencil can fit into a gap, a juvenile mouse can squeeze its skull through it. If the skull fits, the rest of the body follows. Every gap larger than 1/4 inch must be sealed.

Step 3: Professional Trapping Techniques

Once you have sealed the entry points and cleaned up the food, the rodents remaining inside will be hungry and looking for a way out. This is the “Goldilocks” moment for trapping.

Snap Traps vs. Live Traps

Snap Traps: The gold standard for effective control. They are inexpensive, disposable, and provide an immediate kill.
- Pros: High success rate; you know exactly when a rodent is caught.
- Cons: Require manual resetting and disposal of the carcass.
Live Traps: These “catch and release” boxes are preferred by those who want a humane approach.
- Pros: No kill involved.
- Cons: Highly stressful for the animal; rodents often return if released within 2 miles; requires daily checking to prevent starvation.

The Art of Baiting

Forget the cartoons—cheese is a mediocre bait. It dries out and loses its scent quickly.

Sticky & Sweet: Peanut butter or hazelnut spread (Nutella) is the best all-around bait because it is difficult to remove without triggering the trap.
The “Nesting” Trick: Female mice are often looking for bedding. Tie a small piece of cotton ball or dental floss to the trigger. They have to pull on it to take it, which guaranteed a “snap.”
High-Protein: For rats, try a small piece of bacon or a piece of chocolate.

Strategic Placement: The “T-Shape” Method

Rodents have poor eyesight and navigate by feeling the wall with their whiskers (vibrissae).

Don’t place traps in the middle of a room.
Do place traps perpendicular to the wall, with the bait end touching the baseboard. This creates a “T-shape.” As the rodent scurries along the wall, it will run directly over the trigger.

The Numbers Game

One of the biggest mistakes homeowners make is setting two traps for two mice.

The Pro Rule: If you think you have two mice, set twelve traps. Overwhelming the population in the first 48 hours is the key to preventing “trap shyness” and catching the most cautious members of the colony.

Step 4: Rodenticides & Baits (Handle with Care)

Rodenticides (poison) should generally be your last resort, used only when a population is too large for traps to manage or for long-term exterior perimeter control.

When to Use Bait Stations

Exterior Use: Placing tamper-resistant bait stations along the outside foundation of your home can kill rodents before they find a way inside.
Interior Use: Use poison indoors only if rodents are in inaccessible areas (like crawlspaces). Warning: A poisoned rodent may die inside your walls, leading to a significant odor problem that can last for weeks.

Safety First: Tamper-Resistant Stations

Never throw “loose” bait pellets into an attic or basement. Always use Tier 1 Tamper-Resistant Stations. These are locked plastic boxes that allow a rodent to enter but prevent a dog’s paw or a child’s hand from reaching the toxic bait blocks.

The Risk of Secondary Poisoning

This is a major environmental concern. If a hawk, owl, or neighborhood cat eats a mouse that has consumed a “second-generation” anticoagulant, the predator can also be poisoned.

Choose Wisely: Look for baits containing Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3) or Bromethalin. These are effective but have a lower risk of secondary poisoning to the owls and hawks that act as your natural pest control.
Read the Label: Always follow the legal application instructions—the label is the law.

When to Call a Pro

While DIY efforts can manage a minor intrusion, there is a “tipping point” where a rodent problem becomes a professional-grade battle. Knowing when to step back and call an expert can save you hundreds of dollars in damage and months of frustration.

Signs of a “Heavy” Infestation

Daytime Sightings: Rodents are nocturnal. If you see a mouse or rat scurrying across the floor during the day, it usually means the nest is overcrowded and the population has spiraled out of control.
Widespread Droppings: If droppings are found in multiple rooms, including “clean” areas like bedrooms or living rooms, the infestation is no longer localized.
Unreachable Nests: If you hear heavy activity in vaulted ceilings, deep within crawlspaces, or under floorboards where you cannot reach, a pro with specialized scoping cameras and baiting tools is required.

Structural Issues & Professional Exclusion

Some homes have architectural “flaws” that a bag of steel wool won’t fix.

Roof & Siding Gaps: If roof rats are entering through high-altitude soffits or rotting fascia boards, professional carpenters or pest technicians with high-reach equipment are necessary.
Complex Entry Points: Professionals use “industrial-grade” exclusion materials like heavy-gauge metal flashing and specialized sealants that are more durable and aesthetically pleasing than DIY patches.

The Benefits of a Recurring Maintenance Plan

Rodent control is rarely a one-time event—it is a season-by-season defensive strategy. A maintenance plan provides:

External Perimeter Shields: Pros maintain exterior bait stations to kill explorers before they reach your walls.
Early Detection: Regular inspections catch “chew-ins” early, before a new colony can establish itself.
Warranty & Peace of Mind: Most pros offer a “re-service” guarantee, meaning they will return at no cost if the rodents do.

Signs of Infestation

The Flashlight Test